This weekend the four of us headed to Boise for Simone's divisional! It was a quick trip! And this time we stayed in downtown Boise for a change, which was fun! It's a really cute city. We ate dinner at The Fork on Friday and that was delicious.
Simone did great. The qualifier boulders on the first day were very easy. Which was kinda actually hard because that means if you have one fall, you could be out! But luckily it wasn't that way. Four girls flashed all four. And the next two had one extra attempt. Simone had one fall and that meant she tied for 5th. Top thirteen go onto finals, and top 6 for nationals.
In the finals she also placed 5th. The first three boulders she climbed super well. The last one she wishes she could have a do over! It was just her style and she just couldn't zone on that one cause she had too much momentum. She looked at me when she finished and was so worried, "Did I botch it?" And thankfully we knew at that point that she was safe! Ugh the pressure they feel when they have worked all year for this! Its tough. She did not want a repeat of last year.
But there is something to be learned from these and that is just focusing on both what you did right, and what you would change if you could do it all over again. Each new comp is a learning experience! And it's also meant to be fun. Celebrate the successes!
Also, she is very happy that President Trump signed the executive order to protect women and girls in sports. It doesn't apply to climbing because it doesn't involve Title 9 funding. But hopefully someday soon we will see climbing also offering an open category and limiting the girls category to females and her teammates will stop getting cheated at these events.
So we will be heading to Oregon in July for nationals. Yay! And she's very excited because she flew right from Boise to Anaheim to go to Disneyland with Ava and her family. Lucky girl!
We drove home and were back in time to watch the Super Bowl with everyone! Fun weekend.
**Updates USA Climbing has changed their guidelines after all. The male category is now Male/Open. I know this is a complicated issue. However males and females have different categories in sports for a reason. They do not climb at the same grades.
We are thankful for the progress. There are still men competing in women's climbing at local comps. Simones friends have missed out on thousands of dollars in prize money because of it. This non-binary identified person competes as a male in local comps unless it is a prize money comp. This is frustrating to the top level girls. No one wants to miss out on thousands of dollars because a guy decides he is both genders and wears a bra and lipstick for the day then goes back to his maleness the next. It's not fair or compassionate to the many girls that this affects.
Trans people are still and always will be welcome to compete and climb. It just can't be in the female category if they are not born female**
Today USA Climbing is releasing a new Competition Eligibility Policy. Over the past two years USA Climbing worked closely with the trans and nonbinary community to create a policy that provided avenues for participation in USA Climbing sanctioned competitions. However, in September the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee required National Governing Bodies (USA Climbing) to comply with federal mandates, including Executive Order 14201 and the Ted Stevens Olympic and Amateur Sports Act.
We know and regret that this new requirement and policy will significantly impact trans female athletes and their families in our community, as well as their opportunities to compete in USA Climbing sanctioned events. This step is about compliance with outside mandates, not a reflection of our values or the policy we were working on implementing. We remain committed to the inclusion of all USA Climbing members despite the constraints of this policy.














